It may sound impossible. Tour groups tend to mob the major attractions during high season. But come to Italy during the winter and you'll have the place to yourself, except for the people who actually live here.
|Lunch among the wine bottles at an enoteca.|
|Almost alone with the ghosts of ancient Rome.|
|The baroque town of Scicli in Sicily. Everyone is sleeping in.|
|A peaceful apartment in Sorrento's citrus groves.|
The hairpin turns make the coastal road a nail-biter in the daytime because it's barely wide enough for a car, and we got lost trying to find our way back to Sorrento at night. Trying to visit this area when it's packed with tour buses in the summer must be an exercise in gridlock, even if you take the bus.
Italy is lively in the winter with festivals like Carnevale. We arrived while Sorrento celebrated the annual holiday of its patron saint with a street party and fireworks.
|Throwing a coin in the Fountain of Trevi to ensure a return to Rome. Good luck getting this close in the summer!|