Good Morning Islamabad!

Six American journalists have arrived in Islamabad as the Parliament here is debating the future of US-Pakistan relations. It's one of the top stories on the morning TV news. Pakistan's president has met with President Obama in South Korea, and top military officials from both countries are meeting for the first time since a US airstrike killed 24 Pakistani troops along the border with Afghanistan in November.

As we began a series of meetings in the capital, nearly everyone told us that US-Pakistan relations are at a low point. Pakistanis feel they have paid a high price for the war on terror, while Americans may question how much they can trust Pakistan as a post-9/11 ally. For a reminder of the tension, we needed to look no further than the entrance to our hotel, the Marriott which was bombed in 2008. Today the hotel's website boasts of its bomb-proof glass. Security officers checked under the hood of our van and scanned our belongings every time we came in. But it's not just a hassle for the foreigners staying at the Marriott; there were checkpoints all over the city. Pakistanis also have to endure several power blackouts a day due to fuel shortages,  and the country's economy is reeling from the war on terror, which has scared businesses away.

Our first stop was PILDAT, the Pakistan Institute of Legislative Development and Transparency. This organization is the sponsoring partner of our journalism exchange, along with the East-West Center in Hawaii. PILDAT's director, Ahmed Bilal Mehboob, was surprisingly upbeat. Pakistan, he said is "enjoying its finest period of democracy" since its founding in 1947. He singled out the activist judiciary and the feisty, independent media, particularly the privately owned broadcast channels, as bright spots. Looking ahead to 2013, he said, "The next election is critical. If it takes place and it's a fair election we will have made a great leap forward."

Of course, there are plenty of pressures that could push Pakistan in the other direction. In the middle of the meeting at 11:05 a.m., the power went out. Mr. Mehboob didn't skip a beat as he outlined the issues that are dividing the two countries. Pakistan wants an apology for the deaths of the troops killed on the border and an end to anti-terrorist drone strikes that also kill civilians. The US wants to resume supply convoys that travel through Pakistan to reach NATO troops in Afghanistan. Pakistan wants an energy pipeline from Iran, while the US is trying to isolate Iran to discourage its nuclear program. Pakistan already has nuclear weapons pointed at its nuclear-armed neighbor, India, in a standoff of mutually assured destruction. India also has a program to develop civilian nuclear power, but because of concerns about security, the US has not endorsed a similar effort for energy-starved Pakistan. Pakistan spends billions in aid money from the US, while resenting the strings that are attached to American taxpayers' money. US policymakers would like to feel a little more love after being the world's biggest donor to Pakistani earthquake and flood relief.

Later in the day we zipped passed the Parliament building and saw members of an Islamist party demonstrating against the US. But in addition to a long list of divisive issues, we also received an overdose of Pakistan's legendary hospitality. Beginning with PILDAT, we were served coffee, tea and snacks at nearly every meeting we attended. We also experienced a mountaintop restaurant with a group of forward-thinking Pakistanis and American ex-pats. We were surrounded by festive groups of locals enjoying lavish grills of meat, the essential ingredient in the Pakistani diet. Looking out at the view of the lights below, we could have been in the Hollywood Hills looking over the LA basin. Except that it was Pakistan, a land of contrast and contradiction that we have only begun to explore.

Thai massage

A 90 baht ($3) tuk tuk ride brought us from the Reclining Buddha's temple to Khao San road, a commercial block that has been a hangout for low-budget backpackers for decades. Even though we were running out of time, we couldn’t pass up Charlie’s Massage, offering a 30 minute treatment for just 100 baht.

Some people were getting foot massages in the street, but we took off our shoes and were led up a stairway to a room filled with mattresses and pillows, covered with thin but clean sheets. There seemed to be an effort to pair up customers with technicians of similar size; and the reason quickly became obvious as the masseuse used her body weight to manipulate and lean into every limb and muscle of my body, starting with the feet and working up to the back, head and neck. Customers keep their clothes on and no oil is used. The accupressure was a bit strong at times, but it was very effective in melting away the pain and stress of the travel so far. Although it wasn’t exactly the atmosphere of a fancy spa, these hardworking people really should charge more for their services.

We had time to share a pitcher of Singha beer – only $6 – as we waited out a thunderstorm that washed out some of the heat and humidity in the air. The downpour left behind an even wash of sunlight, bringing an artistic glow to our tourist snapshots. By the time we negotiated our tuk tuk ride back to the hotel, we were bargaining like pros.


Like an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “The Layover,” we had made the most of a short time in a city that really deserves a closer look.  I had started the day with the equivalent of $50 dollars and boarded the next plane with a few hundred baht still in my pocket, some regrets about not having shopped a bit more, and a resolve to visit again when I can stay longer. Now, for our group of six American journalists, it's on to the capital city of Pakistan, where the real work of our journalism exchange program will begin.

Jenna and Buddha

The sensual overload of Bangkok can be overwhelming to the first-time visitor. Fortunately, we had a confident guide; Jenna Fisher of the Christian Science Monitor, who had visited Bangkok during her time with the peace corps in Kazahkstan. She expertly guided us through the transit system. She negotiated a discount on the riverboat ride, choosing the swiftest water taxi. Some of us were tempted to linger at a flea market, where likenesses of meditating monks competed with an array of household junk for sale.

I had no idea that so many vintage Barbie dolls ended up on the street in Bangkok! Jenna kept us on track to the most spectacular sight of the day, Wat Pho and its reclining buddha.

This massive buddha rests inside a building that is decorated with splendid murals. The best place to pose for a photo is at his head or feet, and most people seemed to be disregarding the usual protocol of not turning their backs. 

For 20 baht (less than a dollar) you could buy a bowl of smaller coins to be dropped as an offering into a series of bowls. An attendant quickly scooped up the coins so they could be sold and donated again.
 Visitors must take off their shoes and carry them in a tote bag, which must be returned at the exit. A sign warns tourists to beware of “non-Thai pickpockets." The 100 baht entrance fee (about $3.50) included a free bottle of water and unlimited photo opportunities on the grounds.

One Night (and Day) in Bangkok

After another long flight from Tokyo, Bangkok’s modern airport was a wonder to behold. The five-star King Pullman hotel was an even more welcome sight, with its stylish lobby, sumptuous rooms and extensive breakfast buffet. It was the world on a plate with dim sum, sushi, made-to-order omelets and fresh papaya. Stomachs crammed full, our intrepid band of 6 American journalists began the daunting task of seeing Bangkok in five hours.

We jammed into a Skytrain filled with students to reach a pier where we stepped over sleeping dogs into a swift river taxi. The views revealed a diversity of architecture from sparkling new high-rises to crumbling docks and enticing temple roofs.

The ride ended at a pier with a crowded market, filled with people doing their best to make a living with what little they have: buckets of street food, flowers and bits of straw being fashioned into folk art, and a cute little boy who appeared to be selling “information.” His mom insisted I snap his picture.
People encouraged us to shop at their stalls without being overly pushy. The question, “How much?” was answered with an amount shown on a calculator, and bargaining began in the universal language of numbers. 

At the grand palace, a sign warned visitors to beware of “wily strangers.” Female tourists who were unprepared for the dress code waited in line to “borrow” shawls to cover themselves.
 Without enough time to really explore the history of the place and its emerald buddha, we were content with people-watching, dodging the soldiers and school groups, and posing for pictures.

The Cuteness of a Layover in Japan

If you ever have to spend several hours at Tokyo’s Narita Airport, you have time to venture out for a quick visit to the nearby town. It takes some guts to wander outside the airport in an unfamiliar country where you don’t speak or read the language, considering the possibility that you might get lost and miss your flight. But there are enough signs in English and enough helpful people to make it work as long as you keep one eye on your watch. We're journalists, after all, trained to laugh in the face of danger. We changed money and headed out.

It’s a little bit daunting that so many people are wearing surgical face masks, including the clerk at the ticket counter for the train to Narita. However, another helpful lady at the ticket machines got us on our way to the train. After 20 minutes, we got off at the second stop and began walking towards the temple we could see from the train. Along the way there were cute kids, cute pets and cute shops. 

We passed a cemetery where some of the statues were wearing hats and someone had placed a can of tea among the tributes to the dead.

 

After a brisk walk, we took full advantage of the photo opportunities at the temple. There were pretty gardens, live turtles and a handwashing station. Smoke from an incense urn promised to bring good luck to those who inhale it, but some visitors kept their surgical masks on anyway. At the bottom of the steps, we returned to the street and stopped at one of several restaurants where the featured dish is grilled eel. We took off our shoes and sat at a traditional Japanese table, fretting when the promised five minute wait for food turned into 20 minutes. It was time to eat and run. Literally.

Our group of five made it through security and reached the gate just as our flight was boarding. Despite the close call, it was the most fun I’ve ever had on a layover for $25. Arigatou gozaimasu!

Mr. Obama's Neighborhood and the Spirit of Aloha

We bonded with our Pakistani and American colleagues during a tour of the island of Oahu, led by Derek Ferrar, media coordinator for the East-West Center. The former journalist is a human encyclopedia of knowledge about Honolulu and Hawaii's history, including the new tourist hotspots that mark the childhood of President Barack Obama. We passed the hospital where he was born, his elementary school,  and the house where he lived with his grandparents.

But the real joy was in sharing the beauty of one of America's most beautiful states with visitors from the other side of the globe.
We posed in front of the statue of Kamehameha the Great, held each other down for a photo op at a very windy mountain lookout, admired the ruins of an ancient Hawaiian religious site and mostly enjoyed the spectacular coastal views.
The grand finale was sunset on Waikiki Beach. Enjoy the pictures of this spectacular day in paradise. The sun set on the first part of our journey together. The next phase of the exchange program would send the Pakistanis to Washington DC, New York City and Columbia Missouri, while the Americans headed for Islamabad and Karachi, Pakistan.