Three Great Days in Amsterdam

Keukenhof tulips.

As a European travel destination, Amsterdam doesn't get the respect it deserves. You often hear the stereotypes: hookers on display in the red light district, or cannabis in the "coffeeshops." But there is so much more to experience in this livable and friendly city.
So here's my 2015 three-day itinerary for spring break in Amsterdam. Click on the links to learn more or see my Trip Advisor reviews of the places mentioned.

View from the bedroom window.

Your Home Base: I wanted to stay in the historic Jordaan area where hotel rooms are tiny and expensive. The website House Trip provided a more affordable option for my family of three: an apartment on the Bloemgracht. This charming "flower canal" street is residential and quiet, except for the booming bells from the nearby West Church. Everything we needed was close by: grocery store, specialty wine and cheese shops, fun bars and restaurants. All the major tourist attractions were within 20 minutes walking distance and the Anne Frank house was a block away. When searching online, be aware that these canal houses can be oddly laid out with steep, narrow staircases. This one involved only one flight of steps outside and a few more steps inside the front door. We picked up the keys from Vivian, an Amsterdam native who took time to share a list of favorite restaurants, like Cafe de Klepel. This wine bar with great food was fully booked with happy locals, but they welcomed us to sit at the bar. This meal was the perfect start to our trip.

Neighborhood cheese store.

Holland Pass: We saved time and money by purchasing the "large" version of the pass for 82 euros each. It includes three gold tickets, three silver tickets and a transportation ticket for either a canal cruise or the tacky "hop-on hop off" bus. Only one of the gold tickets can be used for the Rijksmuseum (17.50 admission) and it allows you to skip the ticket line. We used another gold ticket for the Van Gogh Museum (17.00 and a shorter line) and combined the third with a silver ticket for a 50-euro trip to the Keukenhof tulip gardens. At this point the pass had paid for itself, so in effect the canal cruise and silver-ticket admission to "Our Lord in the Attic" were free! Plus, we purchased online in advance to take advantage of free train tickets from Schiphol Airport to the city center, which we downloaded in advance. We had a silver ticket left over and never found a reason to use the included discount card. Technically, the pass is good for a month throughout Holland and there are lots of other options to explore in the handy guidebook. It takes some hunting in the vast airport arrivals area to find the pickup point for Holland Pass but it's worth it. Be aware that this does NOT include the Anne Frank house. More on that later. You are ready to hit the streets!

Explanatory cards make you an expert.

Day One: We are early risers who believe in beating the tour-bus and school-group crowds to the major attractions. After coffee and croissants in the apartment (we grocery shopped the night before), it was off to the Rijksmuseum, a brisk 20-minute hike along the Prinsengracht Canal. Not only did we skip the ticket line, we were able to get into the Hall of Fame to see Rembrandt's masterwork "The Night Watch" before it got too crowded with selfie-takers. Although this is one of Europe's great museums, it's delightfully accessible to the art novice and you don't need to do the audio tour. Pick up the explanatory cards that point out the features of most of the noteworthy  artworks. You'll feel like an expert. Allow a full morning.
Museum-going can tough on the mind and the feet, We were ready to sit down for savory crepes at the Pancake Bakery, followed by our canal cruise. The departure point was in the next block. We were blessed with warm, dry spring weather for the entire trip.
Later, after a brief rest stop at the apartment, we walked the red light district with our college-age son as the sun went down. My husband's appetite was definitely aroused, not by the women in the windows, but by the array of sweets on offer in countless storefronts. We had to stop for Nutella waffles! Although I'm troubled by the human-trafficking aspects of legal prostitution and don't do pot, the neighborhood had the energy of an adult theme park and didn't feel quite as sleazy as I had feared.  We also passed by the departure point for the Keukenhof tour and made a reservation for the following day -- essential.

Sunset in the Red Light District.

Day Two: Up early for apartment breakfast and the walk to the departure point for Keukenhof. We were a bit too early in April to see the gardens in full bloom, but greenhouses provided a wealth of photo opportunities. Again, taking the morning bus means you will be able to get better pictures before it gets too crowded. During the hourlong bus ride, the tour guide explained the historical data in English, German and Spanish, then left us on our own to wander the flower gardens for about three hours. Plenty of time. We were back in Amsterdam in time for a late lunch at the Central Library. The self-serve cafeteria on the 7th floor offers organic, fresh-made options for a reasonable price. Highlights: the french fries and the view from the terrace. Refueled, we made our way back toward the St. Nicholas Church, and on to "Our Lord in the Attic." This little gem of a museum on the edge of the red light district recalls the days when Catholics could not openly practice their religion in this Protestant city.

Hidden church in the attic.

Day Three: It's another early wake-up call for your date with Vincent Van Gogh. Plan to be in the shorter Holland Pass line when the museum opens at 9am, or you'll have to wait. In contrast to the broad sweep of the Rijksmuseum, this is a deep dive into the talented and troubled soul of one artist. On the ground floor, you meet his self-portraits at eye level. The no-photograph rule is strictly enforced, which is understandable given the crowds who would no doubt be jostling for selfies with the sunflowers if cameras were allowed. Familiar and less famous works are displayed alongside art that inspired Vincent and his colleagues in Holland and France. Outside on the Museumplein, don't miss the photo opportunity at the iconic iamsterdam sign.

Iconic photo op on the Museumplein.

Back to Jordaan for lunch. The Cafe de Oude Wester, across the canal from the church on a busy corner, is a casual stop for a pancake or a pizza, a cold beer and some people-watching. The line for the Anne Frank house winds around the church, and we're told the wait time can be two hours. Fortunately, we visited the web site TWO MONTHS before our visit and grabbed the last three tickets for the days we were in Amsterdam. With our printed online tickets in hand, we walked past the line and reported to a special door at our appointed time. While climbing up and down the stairs and shuffling through the dark rooms where the family was in hiding, you hear the voice of the girl who wrote the diary. Small wonder that Van Gogh and Anne Frank museums draw the biggest lines: each has a personal story that visitors want to experience up close.
At the end of this emotional one-two punch, you'll be ready for a relaxing beer! Head down the Prinsengracht to P 96, a friendly bar that has a canal barge tethered outside. They can't serve you on the barge, so walk inside the bar, order your drinks and bring them out. Watch the sun set behind West Church as you soak up the hip and festive atmosphere.

Beer on a Canal Boat!

Bye Amsterdam! On our way out of town, we discovered an awesome breakfast place, Broodje Mokum, just around the corner from our apartment. They open early for omelets and a "real Dutch breakfast," served with a smile at a bargain price. We never worked up the nerve to try Amerstdam by bicycle. Locals drive their bikes like people in my home town of Los Angeles drive cars. It's competitive and they probably can do without clueless tourists clogging the fast lane. The plus for visitors is that the air is clear of the diesel fumes you find in many European capitals. You share the streets with trams, bikes, other pedestrians and occasionally a car. English is widely spoken. And I'm glad they're into the whole sustainability thing because Amsterdam will be there for me when I am lucky enough to return.

Hat Tip: This article  on Trip Advisor helped me plan this itinerary.

Did you find this article helpful? Is there something I missed? Feedback welcome.

Travel and Safety in Pakistan

How to Visit Pakistan and Enjoy the Ride. (courtesy John Diaz)

Whenever I tell my fellow Americans I have been to Pakistan -- twice -- their reaction indicates that I must be crazy or clueless. Yes, it can be a dangerous place. Heed the warnings from the US State Department. But it's possible to visit Pakistan and enjoy the experience.

Friends in Secure Places
This is not a country where a Western visitor can stroll around and explore at will. On my first visit in 2012, I was with a group of American journalists escorted by the East-West Center and a Pakistani partner organization, PILDAT. In 2014, I was on a teaching grant from the US State Department, which took precautions for my safety whenever I was scheduled to leave the hotel. In order to get out of the security cocoon and see something, you need local friends who know the territory and are willing to spend time showing you around while looking out for your safety. Having friends on the inside will allow you to discover places like the Karachi Boat Club, a riverside escape from the craziness of the city, but for members only.

A warm welcome in Karachi at 3 am. Thanks Mushtaq!

Welcome to Karachi
If you are fortunate enough to experience Pakistani hospitality, it can be overwhelming. On my most recent arrival in Karachi, my Sindhi journalist colleague Mushtaq Sarki met me at the airport. With flowers. At 3.a.m. "This is our tradition," he explained. When we later realized my son had left his I-Pad on the Turkish Airlines plane, Mushtaq worked his contacts at the airport and the hotel dispatched a car to retrieve it. What are the chances of that happening in any other country? Another aspect of the hospitality tradition is showering the guest with gifts, so pack a generous number of gift items from your home country to reciprocate.

Awesome women journalists in Karachi.
(courtesy US Consulate)

Instant City
Before visiting Karachi, I highly recommend reading "Instant City," a book by NPR reporter Steve Inskeep that explains why the place is such a fascinating, hot mess. Even if all you see is the streetscape from a fast moving van, armored car or taxi it's a cultural overload of donkey carts and brightly painted buses and trucks. My first trip to Karachi included one day when the streets were eerily empty. The city was on lockdown due to the latest violent outbreak of a political feud. Our group ventured out anyway and our van was quickly followed by some menacing dudes on motorcycles, the kind who have a reputation for being possible assassins. Even on a "normal" day, traffic is always unpredictable as police shut down random streets for constantly shifting security reasons. Like people in my hometown of Los Angeles, folks here understand when you are late to an event because of traffic. Perhaps for this reason, people have a tendency not to plan ahead and do things on spur of the moment. Any invitation is likely to be followed by a hopeful "insha Allah," which means "God willing." Because of "load shedding" Karachi residents must endure hours of blackouts every day, and demonstrators frequently hit the streets to demand electricity, causing closures and traffic jams. My hotel had a generator that kicked in a couple of times a day.
With an adventurous American friend, I was fortunate to find a friendly hotel-approved cab driver who helped us escape the security cocoon long enough to have an elegant dinner at Okra and a night camel ride on the beach. He also alerted us when it was time to cut the camel ride short because "people are talking bad about you." Don't question these warnings and stay safe.

Shopping buddies helped me navigate the (now-closed) Sunday market in Defense.

Standing Out and Fitting In
Not all women in Pakistan cover their hair and, unless I've been invited to a mosque or other religious place, I don't either. But I carry a scarf just in case. My blonde locks are a sure attention-getter, and it's not always harmless curiosity. If your Pakistani host tells you it's time to move out of an area, don't question it. Many of your outings will be to places like the Port Grand mall, which requires passing through TSA-like security to enter the array of upscale shops and restaurants. In 2012 I was able to shop for bargains in the stalls of the Sunday market in the upper class neighborhood of Defense, with translation and price-haggling assistance from a helpful journalism student. But marketplaces are frequent targets and this type of shopping was discouraged in 2014. I've been told the Defense market is no longer operating. In any case, you'll want to visit a shop like Koel and buy a few shalwar kameez, the kaftan-like dresses (and shirts for the men) worn everywhere in Pakistan. You'll get lots of compliments from Pakistanis who appreciate your willingness to embrace their culture.

Shopping for Shalwar Kameez in Karachi.

Lahore
This garden city takes pride in being a center of higher education. It's greener and less dusty than Karachi, but security is still a concern. For a fun night out, friends led the way to the Food Street, a relic of times before the 1947 partition of Pakistan and India. The crumbling colonial-era buildings have been turned into food stalls serving local specialties, including every part of the animal. Pakistanis love meat and being a vegetarian here can be a challenge. Again, it helps to have friends looking out for you. My host made sure we were served the freshest food and not something that had been sitting around for a while.

You'll need friends to help you place an order on the Food Street in Lahore.
(courtesy Linda Roth)

My visit coincided with a planned political demonstration near the hotel where I was planning to stay, so I was moved to an extraordinary Heritage Hotel called The Moor. This place is so secure that you must be pre-cleared in order to stay here. The room service, delivered by a friendly butler, was fine for breakfast and a light dinner, and I was able to walk to a nearby restaurant with a colleague.
Lahore has a number of historic attractions that I couldn't fit in on this business trip and coming back to see the India border ceremony is definitely on my list for the future. (Update: the border crossing has also been a terrorist target. Use caution when visiting.)
Be careful at ATMS. A bank machine swallowed my friend's card and the local branch of the issuing bank was no help. To get a replacement she had to contact customer service in the US on Twitter. Even though the exchange rate wasn't very good, I opted for changing money at the airport or hotel.

At the Great Faisal Mosque in Islamabad.

Islamabad
When staying at the Marriott, be aware that his hotel was the target of a suicide truck bomb in 2008, killing at least 54 people, injuring several hundred and leaving a large crater in the hotel. Security is a concern every time you enter or leave. On my first visit, I was welcomed to the home of a Pakistani journalist and his charming family. They managed to get the kids'  homework done and put dinner on the table just in time for the nightly "load shedding" blackout, and we ate by candlelight. The city is laid out in blocks with large undeveloped spaces and doesn't invite the visitor to take a stroll anywhere. Again, you'll rely on your local contacts to show you such highlights as the Great Faisal mosque, which is off limits to non-believers. All government buildings, and even NGOs, have dudes with automatic weapons to guard their gated compounds. Friends will guide you to places like Khaadi for upscale clothing, or outlets for more basic handicrafts with negotiable prices. Saidpur Village, while touristy, gives a glimpse of life outside the urban zones, where kids will eagerly jump in front of your camera and a nearby goat market shows off tonight's dinner still on the hoof. To escape the city, plan a trip up the Margalla Hills to the Monal restaurant.

Welcome to the goat market at Saidpur Village.

Peshawar
Some of the nicest and most welcoming Pakistanis I met in 2014 were journalists who had traveled from Peshawar to participate in our training in Islamabad. Peshawar is the capital of the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, the tribal area in the northwest of Pakistan.  As of this writing, it is far too dangerous for an American traveler to take advantage of their warm invitation to visit their beautiful and often violent city in the foothills of the Himalayas. But someday...  insha Allah.

Meeting journalists from Peshawar in Islamabad. (courtesy Linda Roth)