Nicaragua: No rules

A warning about diving in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Nicaragua: it's really cold! I was having such a good time checking out the underwater scene that I didn't realize hypothermia was setting in until 40 minutes later when I tried to get back in the boat. A thick wetsuit didn't prevent my arms and legs from going numb.

 The crew of the panga dive boat was very professional and one of the crew used a machete to slice up a fresh pineapple for a snack. They also caught two good-sized flounder. Unlike many dive spots where fishing is forbidden, divers here can catch whatever they see. "It's Nicaragua," the dive master explained. "No rules."
If you look around the port you can still see a few props left over from the CBS reality show "Survivor Nicaragua," which was filmed nearby. 

A very windy Jesus

We found a taxi driver who was willing to take us to the top of the mountain where a statue of Jesus watches over the bay of San Juan del Sur. We climbed up the final steps against a very strong wind. It has been very windy for our entire stay, like a Santa Ana that never stops blowing. On the hilltop the gusts were almost strong enough to pick up your entire body. Without the wind it would probably be hot and buggy, so we decided to tie ourselves down and enjoy the view.

Villas de Palermo

We discovered the Villas de Palermo on Groupon and decided to give it a try because we had seen the town of San Juan del Sur on HGTV's International House Hunters.
 It was also an unbelievable deal: $499 for 3 nights in a spacious two story villa with 2 bedrooms, each with en suite bath, perfect for two couples or our family of three.

Also included was $250 credit at the resort's pool restaurant with its splendid view of the bay. It was more than enough to cover breakfasts and dinners for 3 people plus numerous drinks by the pool. 
There was a free taxi shuttle into town but getting a taxi back would be a bit of a challenge if you don't speak Spanish and the rates seemed to fluctuate randomly.

Villa # 22 had a lovely patio with a view and free wifi! We also got massages from two gals who set up their tables in our villa and it was only $35 usd for a one hour Swedish massage. Paradise indeed. And where else can you get a free wake up call from wild howler monkeys in the jungle next door?

A Ride to Remember

The road from Managua's Sandino airport to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast is a 125 kilometer adventure. We had read the warnings on the US State Dept web site to beware of bandits who prey on tourists. We had booked a van through the Villas de Palermo resort and definitely looked like tourists. Our driver immediately put us at ease, even stopping to give a cold bottle of water to a thirsty motorcycle cop. Forget bandits; this driver wasn't going to get so much as a speeding ticket.

 The two lane road was filled with potholes and lined with humble homes, bunches of school kids, farms and animals. Our driver took care to point out every church and point of interest in the towns and gave us a peek at a crater lake near the town of Caterina. So the 2 hour drive took a bit longer. I didn't want it to end. The pictures don't really capture the experience of this fascinating first look at Nicaragua.